During my trip to Spiti valley in 2017, I had the pleasure of encountering a diverse array of individuals, each unique in their own way. One remarkable person was our driver, Kesan Raapchik, who was not just an exceptional driver (arguably the best I’ve ever seen!), but also a national athlete.
During our visit to the world’s highest post office in Hikkim, we had the privilege of meeting the postmaster. The post office itself was a humble abode, with one room serving as the post office and the other as his kitchen and bedroom. Astonishingly, he had been the postmaster for the past 37 years! His passion for his job was palpable, and he graciously granted us an interview while making tea. These are the kind of extraordinary people you encounter daily in Spiti.
At Dhankar Monastery, we met a young man with a ponytail and a warm smile. “Great place,” he remarked. “Yes,” I agreed. Our conversation continued, and we discovered that he had walked from Tabo to Kaza and planned to reach Kaza by evening. We were staying at “Deyzor,” and he declared, “I’ll see you there in the evening and will be serving you dinner.” This encounter left me intrigued about our upcoming stay in Kaza.
Deyzor in Kaza
Skalzang Dorje & Karan
Allow me to introduce you to Karan, the owner of Deyzor in Kaza. I’ve never seen such an exquisite place to stay; it exuded class with a personal touch in every detail. Handwritten messages adorned the rooms, and the restaurant served some of the most delectable food. “Ravioli and pumpkin soup are the best!” Karan beamed when we sought recommendations. He’s a young man who moved to Kaza with a mission to make a positive impact on the community. Everything in his hotel was locally sourced, and he actively supported the locals. Karan operated the hotel for six months, and during the winter months, from November to March, he closed shop and embarked on motorcycle adventures to different countries. He exclaimed, “This is the best job in the world – you earn for six months and enjoy your life for the next six.” On our final day, we had the pleasure of meeting his partner, Skalzang Dorje, a local who had generously provided the land for the hotel. Interestingly, he was the only person from Spiti to have represented India in archery at the Atlanta Olympics.
The story keeps getting better. The next extraordinary person I encountered was a man named Michael Heckenberg from Australia. I spotted him quietly enjoying breakfast in a corner of the restaurant. He appeared to be a seasoned traveler, not your typical tourist. He didn’t need to place an order; the coffee and his usual eggs were promptly served. My curiosity led me to introduce myself, and I learned that Michael considered Spiti the best place in the world. After visiting as a tourist three years prior, he fell in love with the place and its people, deciding to volunteer here for six months each year. As a nurse, he aimed to establish palliative care in Spiti and collaborated with Spiti Ecosphere-Responsible Travel and Volunteering to achieve this goal. He had even journeyed to Calicut to learn about Indian nursing practices and was now deeply involved in various initiatives, from girls’ education to setting up solar pumps and greenhouses, and advocating for a plastic-free Spiti. Michael introduced me to Spiti Ecosphere and its diverse volunteer workforce, which included individuals like himself from outside India, such as Michael from Canada, who sponsored girls’ college education, and Joe from New Zealand, who taught school kids.
Chacha and chachi
In their Dhabba
Chacha and Chachi
Certificate
On the final leg of our journey from Chandrataal to Manali, which entailed navigating tough and rugged terrain, we made a stop at a dhabba in Bhatal to enjoy some tea. The owners, a cheerful husband and wife known as Chacha Chachi, welcomed us with warm smiles. As we settled in, we couldn’t help but notice the certificates and news articles adorning the walls, highlighting their awards. They were affectionately known as “Chacha Chachi Dhabba,” and many foreigners could be seen taking pictures with them. Intrigued, we asked for their story. It turns out that for the past three years, this couple had been the saviors of numerous tourists. In 2010, during a severe snowfall, approximately 107 tourists (including 37 foreigners) found themselves stranded in this remote location, cut off from the rest of civilization for nearly a month. Chacha Chachi took them all in, providing shelter and support without expecting anything in return. They prepared for such emergencies by stocking up supplies for up to six months to assist travelers in need.
If you ever find yourself in Spiti, I implore you not to miss the chance to visit Chacha Chachi Dhabba in Bhatal. Additionally, pay a visit to the Ecosphere office in the old market area of Kaza, where you can enjoy a meal and engage in tours that directly benefit the local community. Don’t forget to experience the unique charm of Hotel Deyzor, converse with Karan, and make friends with the adorable dogs in the restaurant, each with its own fascinating story.
The people of Spiti are truly remarkable. Despite being cut off from civilization for six months of the year, they radiate happiness and love. When I asked Michael why he chose Spiti of all places, he replied, “Mahesh, let’s meet for breakfast on the last day of your visit, and I’m sure you’ll have your answer.” And indeed, I did.
Lalitha
Very interesting 👍
Shankar
Thanks for sharing your experience…I could see myself in the place!